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The bustline is very much a
defining characteristic of corsets.
It is evident in the general
grouping of corsets into underbust and overbust corsets.
Overbust corsets normally cover
the breasts at least up to the nipple. Various styles are available for
this.
Underbust corsets leave the
breast exposed, but may still offer some support.
Waist cinchers start
significantly lower than the underbust line. The classic waist cincher
is a ribbon-type corset.
I have no experience in making
ribbon corsets, so I don't offer them.
The available hip styles differ
mainly in the length of the corset.
A short hip corset, also known
as a riding
corset, ends above the hips, with just a small part of the corsets
extending out over the hipbone to give support and keep the corset from
sliging down and digging into the top of the hips.
Traditionally, these corsets
were for horseback riding, where a certain amount of hip mobility is
essential.
The most common style today is
the mid hip
corset, covering the top of the hips and extending downward to about 2"
over the hip bone.
The front dips lower to control
the tummy, creating a very straight, slim silhouette.
The full hip style reaches
further downward, ending just above the pubis and covering half the
bottom.
Such corsets are most suitable
for wearing
under dresses with tight fitting skirts, because the provide excellent
tummy control and shaping.
Longer hip styles are
available, including
the "Titanic" era corsets, which extend to a point where the corset
will touch the seat when the wearer sits down, and fetish corsets /
corset dresses, in which the wearer cannot sit at all.
Most notable among the waist
styles are the
hourglass shape, commonly associated with the Victorian era, and the
wasp waist, mostly found in Edwardian corsetry.
The hourglass is a shape that
is easy to wear, because it exerts very little pressure on the lower
ribs.
However, at greater reduction,
it can be less than pleasing to the eye, giving that nipped-in, sausage
link effect.
The wasp waist is harder to
wear, but gives
the more pleasing shape. It creates an upper body shape that tapers
smoothly into a small waist, then opening up again to accomodate the
hips.
All waist styles can be
constructed as stem waists.
In a stem-waisted corset, a
certain distance at the waist is straight, giving the same
circumference over a certain length.
This is a style that is very
hard to wear, it takes much training before a longer stem waist can
even be tried.
Stem waisted corsets place
great
pressure on the lower ribs.
While a 1" stem is quite easily
achieved for an experienced wearer, longer stems require dedication in
wearing.
All overbust styles can
optionally be made with a neckholder (halter neck), and lapels.
For each corset, a matching
neck corset may be ordered.
Neck corsets can be quite tall
and restrictive, or they can be much shorter and more of a decoration
than a restriction.
They can be made with lacing or
velcro
closure. Elastic inserts at the rear are also possible, to increase the
wearing confort of the decorative pieces.
If a neck corset is ordered as
an accessory to a corset, it is available at a discount.
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O V E R B U S T C O R S E T
The image to the
right shows a
classic overbust style.
The corset extends upward to cover the breasts.
The shape of the top edge can be varied easily, and at
no extra cost.
C O R S E T W I T H C U P S

This is an overbust corset with cups.
The corset features underwire bra cups for perfect shaping and support.
H A L F B U S T C O R S E T
Half bust corsets
cover the lower half of the bust.
They lift the breasts and produce a pronounced upper
breast curve.
U N D E R B U S T C O R S E T
The underbust
corset, shown to the right, does not cover the bust at all.
It leaves you free to wear whatever bra you choose.
If a corset is worn as a daily foundation garment, this
is the most flexible style.
S H O R T H I P C O R S E T
This image shows
the riding corset.
It's short hip line makes it easy to move the hips, for
instance for horseback riding or latin dance styles.
M I D H I P C O R S E T
The mid hip corset
is the most often worn style.
It combines the confort of a longer hip style, which
distributes the pressure much better than a riding corset, with the
mobility of the shorter style.
For daily wear, this is the preferred hip style.
L O N G H I P C O R S E T
The long hip style
is quite restrictive. It provides excellent tummy control, though, and
is suitable for wear with long dresses.
When wearing fitted skirts, the style presents an
absolutely flat, smooth front.
T I T A N I C E R A C O R S E T
This is the style
of corset worn in the era of the Titanic.
It is suitable for period pieces, meant to be worn under
full skirts.
This style, of all the possible styles, has the most
influence on posture, as it makes slouching absolutely impossible.
This style cannot be worn with trousers of any kind.
C O R S E T D R E S S
Corset dresses are
used in corset and obedience training.
They are worn to fetish events and in the home.
Sitting is impossible in a corset dress, where the
boning is full length.
It reduces the wearer to taking very small steps, and
can be tightened so far that walking is no longer possible.
Most often, they are used for punishment and sub/sissy
training.
W A I S T S T Y L E S
Three waist styles are possible.
On the right, the wasp waist, also known as cone, or
ice-cream cone, is shown.
The upper body tapers smoothly down to a narrow waist,
from where the hips flare out.
This style requires some training to wear, but is
aesthetically pleasing and well worth the effort.
The hourglass style gives more
rib room.
It was common in the Victorian era. It
is easy to wear and get used to, and creates pleasing results at light
or moderate reductions.
With greater reduction, it can give the
impression that a tight belt, rather than a corset, is worn.
The stem waist, also referred to as
pipe-stem, is the hardest waist style to wear.
It exerts extreme pressure on the lower
ribs.
Stem waisted corsets were never worn as
regular garments, there are even articles on the internet, claiming
that stem waisted corsets are a myth.
Several makers, including
myself, make them, and some notable tightlacers wear stem
waist corsets.
A stem can be added to any corset style.
O T H E R O P T I O N S
Additionally, most overbust styles
can be made with a halter top, as shown here.
Lapels can be added to some styles
as well for the more stylish look.
This is an interesting option for
outerwear corsets.
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